Three ways to fix one down
Dowel and resin is the default and the strongest: two holes through the cast-in ducts, rebar dowels set in resin into the slab. It needs about 100 mm of drilling depth and a slab you are allowed to drill.
Adhesive bedding sets the unit on a continuous bed of structural adhesive with no penetration at all. It holds well against the loads a wheel stopper sees, and it is the only option on a deck you cannot drill. It needs a clean, dry, sound substrate and will not bond through curing compound or laitance.
Cast-in is the strongest of the three but only available on a slab you have not poured yet, which is rarely the situation by the time stoppers are ordered.
Post-tensioned decks: nothing gets drilled until it is scanned
On a post-tensioned slab a drilled hole that catches a tendon is a structural repair, not a snag. The tendon is stressed; cutting it releases that force locally and the remediation cost is orders of magnitude above the value of the stoppers.
So the sequence is not negotiable: scan first with GPR or a cover meter, mark the tendon zones, then decide. Where the scan is clear you may drill shallow. Where it is not, adhesive-set the unit and move on. If nobody will pay for a scan, adhesive-set everything. It is far cheaper than cutting a tendon.
Same rule applies to any slab with a waterproofing membrane, podium landscaping over habitable space, or embedded heating and services.
Waterproofing you cannot see
A podium or basement roof deck has a membrane under the wearing surface, and a dowel through it creates a leak path directly over occupied space. Nobody notices during installation; everybody notices in the first heavy wash-down.
Treat any deck over occupied space as undrillable unless someone with the as-built drawings tells you otherwise in writing. Adhesive bedding exists for exactly this case.
The setback that keeps the bay usable
Unlike a kerb, a wheel stopper stops the wheel and the car overhangs beyond it. Set it too close to the wall and the bumper touches; set it too far forward and you lose usable bay depth and the car protrudes into the aisle.
On a standard bay, a setback of roughly 750 to 900 mm from the wall or rear obstruction to the face of the stopper works for most vehicles. Where the bay backs onto a column, a service riser or a glazed line, take the setback from the thing you are protecting rather than from the bay marking.
What to send us
The deck type, whether it is post-tensioned or waterproofed, and the bay layout. We supply the dowels and resin with the stoppers on the same delivery so nothing waits on a second order, and we will say plainly if we think your deck should not be drilled.
The estimator quoting your job also delivers it
Send the drawing or a photograph. You get a delivered rate, a date and a straight answer on whether the spec is right.
How are concrete wheel stoppers fixed down?
Either two rebar dowels set in resin through the cast-in ducts, or a continuous bed of structural adhesive where the slab cannot be drilled. Dowels are stronger; adhesive is the answer on post-tensioned or waterproofed decks.
Can you drill into a post-tensioned deck?
Not until it has been scanned. Catching a stressed tendon is a structural repair costing far more than the stoppers. Scan with GPR, mark the tendon zones, and adhesive-set anywhere the scan is not clear.
How far from the wall should a wheel stopper sit?
Roughly 750 to 900 mm from the wall or rear obstruction to the face of the stopper suits most vehicles. Measure from whatever you are protecting, such as a column or riser, rather than the painted line.